Alright 600 miles and 3 states down! (1500 miles and 10 states to go) Finally we are able to do 20 miles a day on a regular basis. We've made a few new friends and our old friend, Dr. Geo, caught back up with us. Today we're in Dalton, Mass. We woke up and walked 10 miles to town (the trail goes right through town), where we went by the post office to pick up a box sent by my sister, Kara. She sure knows how to pack a hiker box! It was full to the brim with goodies and home made brownies! Thanks, Kara! We're checking our email (and blogging) at the library now. Next is lunch, then we're going to find a free shower we saw advertised to hikers on a bulletin board at the edge of town. We have a few other chores to do and then we'll be walking a few more miles back into the woods tonight.
A few interesting experiences we've had in this last section of trail: 1) There have been multiple fire towers on mountain tops that we've crossed over lately. The views (if you can stomach the climb up the old rickety towers) are amazing. 2) The trail goes through a small town called Cheshire, Mass where we decided to stay last night (for free in a church that offers hikers a room in their fellowship hall) We walked down the street to a pizzeria/pub where we were told immediately upon sitting down that if we didn't have clean shirts to put on we'd have to close the window by our table because it was blowing our smell over to the bar and someone was complaining. For a restaurant centered around the trail, we were not feeling welcome. 3) Saw a naked hiker. He was bare butt naked and offered no apologies or explanations. You just never know what the trail will bring.
Still Walking...
We set this blog up to chronicle our Southbound hike of the Appalachian Trail in 2010. We called our blog A Long Walk Together. Our hike was a great success, and to this day we continue to walk to gather in marriage, in adventures, in life, and in love. I decided that if our walk isn't over, this blog's not over either.
8.21.2010
8.17.2010
Vermont
We're in Vermont! (actually, we've been here a couple days but this is the first post from Vermont) Last time we posted we were in Glencliff and I was not feeling well. After a day off, I felt no better. Luckily, a friend of mine from my hike in 2007 had offered her place when we got to Hanover, the next town up. In true trail angel form, Pinky (aka Rachel Lynch) picked me up and took me back to her family's home to recover while Shawn hiked the 42 miles to her town (which he did in 2 days because he is a machine) The Lynchs opened their home to us, fed us, gave us a private cabin on the water, let us take out the boat, swim, play with their dogs, and relax while Shawn took a day off as well. We could not be more grateful!
After all that rest and good food (which I was finally able to eat) we felt great and were off to Vermont. The trail has mellowed out a little for us now. The climbs are shorter and switchbacked (zig zags going up and down mountains instead of going straight up and straight down) and the trail has far fewer obstacles (like rocks, roots, giant mud puddles). This means we're able to do more miles- we've had 3 days over 20 miles so far in Vermont. Just the other day, we did 14.9 miles before our lunch break at 1:00.
The best part about Vermont is that we've finally caught up to some other Southbounders! Lucky and Charm are a couple about our ages from Georgia that we've been walking with for a couple days now. And here in town we met Boss Lady and Sherpa- SOBOs also! And the biggest treat was reading a not in a trail register from our old friend Dr. Geo who we walked with in Maine. He was ahead but was taking 3 days off and said we might catch him. Sure enough we passed him but he did a 29 mile day (whaaat!???) to catch us here at the Green Mountain Hostel (which is an amazing place that even Amanda would appreciate). So now there's a pack of 7 us that will all be with in a day or so of each other for a while.
Two other highlights from this section of trail- first, last night at the hostel, the women staying here decided to pick up groceries for a big hiker dinner. Lucky made spaghetti, Boss Lady made black bean tacos with cheese and avocado, Rocket (a northbounder) made salad and veggies, and I made fruit pizza for desert. We were all in the kitchen having a blast together while our significant others watched TV and later did the dishes. I miss cooking in a kitchen instead of on the ground (although we hear the shelters near here and then on down south have picnic tables! Don't know why Maine and New Hampshire opt not to have them...) Highlight number two- We had a shelter all to ourselves one night, or so we thought. Then something woke us up in the brush near the shelter. We turned on a light and there was a big porcupine! He was shy at first but after testing the waters he realized we weren't getting out of our warm sleeping bags so he came right up to the shelter and proceeded to gnaw on the porch floor. We laughed and took pictures and watched for a long time. Then the gnawing sound was too much- we needed sleep. Shawn (I mean Picker) asked him to go ahead and leave.
After all that rest and good food (which I was finally able to eat) we felt great and were off to Vermont. The trail has mellowed out a little for us now. The climbs are shorter and switchbacked (zig zags going up and down mountains instead of going straight up and straight down) and the trail has far fewer obstacles (like rocks, roots, giant mud puddles). This means we're able to do more miles- we've had 3 days over 20 miles so far in Vermont. Just the other day, we did 14.9 miles before our lunch break at 1:00.
The best part about Vermont is that we've finally caught up to some other Southbounders! Lucky and Charm are a couple about our ages from Georgia that we've been walking with for a couple days now. And here in town we met Boss Lady and Sherpa- SOBOs also! And the biggest treat was reading a not in a trail register from our old friend Dr. Geo who we walked with in Maine. He was ahead but was taking 3 days off and said we might catch him. Sure enough we passed him but he did a 29 mile day (whaaat!???) to catch us here at the Green Mountain Hostel (which is an amazing place that even Amanda would appreciate). So now there's a pack of 7 us that will all be with in a day or so of each other for a while.
Two other highlights from this section of trail- first, last night at the hostel, the women staying here decided to pick up groceries for a big hiker dinner. Lucky made spaghetti, Boss Lady made black bean tacos with cheese and avocado, Rocket (a northbounder) made salad and veggies, and I made fruit pizza for desert. We were all in the kitchen having a blast together while our significant others watched TV and later did the dishes. I miss cooking in a kitchen instead of on the ground (although we hear the shelters near here and then on down south have picnic tables! Don't know why Maine and New Hampshire opt not to have them...) Highlight number two- We had a shelter all to ourselves one night, or so we thought. Then something woke us up in the brush near the shelter. We turned on a light and there was a big porcupine! He was shy at first but after testing the waters he realized we weren't getting out of our warm sleeping bags so he came right up to the shelter and proceeded to gnaw on the porch floor. We laughed and took pictures and watched for a long time. Then the gnawing sound was too much- we needed sleep. Shawn (I mean Picker) asked him to go ahead and leave.
8.06.2010
The Whites!
We are officially through the hardest section of the trail- the White Mountains of New Hampshire. This 80ish mile section of trail gets a lot of hype for being difficult- which it is, but also beautiful- which it most definitely is! We really enjoyed the views. Much of the trail here is above tree line which is a nice change of pace. Having 360 degree fantastic views and being able to see the next several miles of trail ahead of you is really a treat. Mt. Washington was, for us, a bit of a disappointment. It's the highest mountain in New England and we felt proud to walk all the way to the top until we saw hundreds of people who had arrived by car, bus and train. It was a Saturday and the place felt like Disney World! The one good thing about a mountain that's a tourist destination is the snack bar. Pizza, Chowder, Nachos, Coke and a New England delicacy known as Whoopie Pie lifted our spirits a bit. Tourists aside, the rest of the Presidential Range was amazing and we had perfect weather. We were able to enjoy ourselves by not pushing huge miles and taking breaks often.
After a stop over in North Woodstock, NH a few days ago, we're here at the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff, NH with 398 miles of trail behind us. We'll pick up some groceries and hopefully be on the trail soon... (I have yet another stomach bug, and am trying to feel better ASAP)
After a stop over in North Woodstock, NH a few days ago, we're here at the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff, NH with 398 miles of trail behind us. We'll pick up some groceries and hopefully be on the trail soon... (I have yet another stomach bug, and am trying to feel better ASAP)
7.27.2010
Goodbye Maine!
And Hello, New Hampshire! After about 3 weeks of walking we've made it 300 miles to Gorham, NH. Being done with Maine feels great! We'll give you a little recap of what Maine was like for us.
Starting out, the climb up Katahdin was difficult- we felt more like rock climbers than hikers at times- but was amazing. After climbing up a rocky spine, the mountain opened up in to what is known as the table lands, a huge, gently sloping, alpine boulder field. To date, Katahdin provided the most amazing views of the trip.
After Katahdin, it was the 100 mile wilderness. The terrain was gentle but the trail was riddled with obstacles- rocks, roots, mud, river crossings, and bog boards. We were able to work on building our trail legs there in the easiest stretch of Maine. In the wilderness we were preyed on by every imaginable biting insect, relentlessly.
Southern Maine, (post 100 mile wilderness) was very rocky. The thin alpine soil erodes down to bare rock, making the trail slick and almost impassable. Southern Maine is also known for being muddy- something we can attest to.
Our last section in Maine was the Mahoosuc Range. This was the most difficult section for us so far. The Mahoosucs are high alpine peaks that are beautiful in good weather but a bit treacherous in 50+ mile per hour winds with dense fog and wet trail. The best (and in some ways worst) part of the Mahoosucs is the Mahoosuc Notch. Famed as the hardest (or most fun!) mile on the trail, the Notch is a mile-long valley filled with a jumble of boulders as big as cars and even houses. The trail took us over, between, and even under these massive rocks. Several spaces are too small to fit through with a large pack on so we had to push our packs ahead of us then squeeze through behind them.
Maine was certainly fun. We've been having a blast both hiking and in camp. We're especially glad to still be hiking with our friend Dr. Geo. Fun and games aside, we're looking forward to some smoother trail where we can look at the views instead of our feet! But with New Hampshire ahead of us, it will be another 200 miles or so before smoother sailing. Our next section is the Presidential Range of the White Mountains. It will be difficult for sure, but the views should make up for it! We'll keep you posted.
Starting out, the climb up Katahdin was difficult- we felt more like rock climbers than hikers at times- but was amazing. After climbing up a rocky spine, the mountain opened up in to what is known as the table lands, a huge, gently sloping, alpine boulder field. To date, Katahdin provided the most amazing views of the trip.
After Katahdin, it was the 100 mile wilderness. The terrain was gentle but the trail was riddled with obstacles- rocks, roots, mud, river crossings, and bog boards. We were able to work on building our trail legs there in the easiest stretch of Maine. In the wilderness we were preyed on by every imaginable biting insect, relentlessly.
Southern Maine, (post 100 mile wilderness) was very rocky. The thin alpine soil erodes down to bare rock, making the trail slick and almost impassable. Southern Maine is also known for being muddy- something we can attest to.
Our last section in Maine was the Mahoosuc Range. This was the most difficult section for us so far. The Mahoosucs are high alpine peaks that are beautiful in good weather but a bit treacherous in 50+ mile per hour winds with dense fog and wet trail. The best (and in some ways worst) part of the Mahoosucs is the Mahoosuc Notch. Famed as the hardest (or most fun!) mile on the trail, the Notch is a mile-long valley filled with a jumble of boulders as big as cars and even houses. The trail took us over, between, and even under these massive rocks. Several spaces are too small to fit through with a large pack on so we had to push our packs ahead of us then squeeze through behind them.
Maine was certainly fun. We've been having a blast both hiking and in camp. We're especially glad to still be hiking with our friend Dr. Geo. Fun and games aside, we're looking forward to some smoother trail where we can look at the views instead of our feet! But with New Hampshire ahead of us, it will be another 200 miles or so before smoother sailing. Our next section is the Presidential Range of the White Mountains. It will be difficult for sure, but the views should make up for it! We'll keep you posted.
7.17.2010
187 miles down....
Well we had an interesting few days on and off the trail. Just a few days after leaving Monson I (Laura... aka Grinner) came down with a pretty uh... lets just say violent stomach bug. I was rescued by Dawn, the owner of Shaw's in Monson, who took me back to her hostel, put me up in the nicest room, and took me to the Hospital where I learned I "probably don't" have Ghiardia- the most feared disease on the trail.
While I recovered, Shawn went ahead to the next trail town, Stratton, where we reunited yesterday. Really, we planned to meet here Sunday morning but Shawn (Picker) and our good trail friend Doc Geo decided to do big days to get here, including one day over 20 miles! We're taking today to rest and will be back on the trail TOGETHER tomorrow. Hopefully we will have good health and smooth trails from now on!
While I recovered, Shawn went ahead to the next trail town, Stratton, where we reunited yesterday. Really, we planned to meet here Sunday morning but Shawn (Picker) and our good trail friend Doc Geo decided to do big days to get here, including one day over 20 miles! We're taking today to rest and will be back on the trail TOGETHER tomorrow. Hopefully we will have good health and smooth trails from now on!
7.11.2010
100 Mile Wilderness
114 miles down! We made it to Monson, Maine this morning after finishing the section of the trail known as the 100 Mile Wilderness. This section is considered to be the most remote section of the trail. Maine is beautiful and the weather has been nearly perfect. Just one morning of pouring down rain (which helped to wash off some of the 9 day stink).
The biggest news besides walking our first 100 miles is that we've got our trail names. Shawn is known as Picker on the trail. He can't walk by a piece of trash with out picking it up and packing it out (and complaining about people's carelessness). I am now called Grinner- I'm just happy to be out walking.
We've been so fortunate to have good health this first, and most critical 10 days on the trail. There's not a blister or hot spot between us. Besides some stiffness and sore feet we're feeling great and looking forward to getting back out on the trail tomorrow, but not until after we've had our 2nd all you can eat hiker breakfast here at Shaw's Hostel (aka hiker paradise). Expect to hear from us in about a week from Stratton, ME.
The biggest news besides walking our first 100 miles is that we've got our trail names. Shawn is known as Picker on the trail. He can't walk by a piece of trash with out picking it up and packing it out (and complaining about people's carelessness). I am now called Grinner- I'm just happy to be out walking.
We've been so fortunate to have good health this first, and most critical 10 days on the trail. There's not a blister or hot spot between us. Besides some stiffness and sore feet we're feeling great and looking forward to getting back out on the trail tomorrow, but not until after we've had our 2nd all you can eat hiker breakfast here at Shaw's Hostel (aka hiker paradise). Expect to hear from us in about a week from Stratton, ME.
7.01.2010
Leaving on a Jet Plane
With our gear shipped ahead to Maine and all other belongings in storage, we flew out of Orlando yesterday afternoon. By 11:30 we were in Bangor, Maine trying to get some sleep on the floor in the airport. We had limited success.
So this morning we were up for a 5am breakfast in the airport before venturing to town. We walked to the bus station, bought our tickets for this evening and got some vague directions to the library 3 miles away in downtown Bangor. Thanks to some kid on his way to summer school who was heading our way anyway, we made it... only to find out we were an hour early so we walked around town like vagabonds. Its nice not having anything to do.
We had a great time in Florida this last week, visiting friends and family. We really enjoyed all the hiking questions- what do you eat? how far do you walk? do you carry a tent? etc. We try to paint a rosy picture of this hike but we've noticed that others' descriptions aren't as flattering. Our aunt Amy and cousin Shana both had comical ways of describing our walk in the woods as an endless trudge in the worst possible conditions. All we could do is laugh nervously. We know this hike will, at times, be closer to their description than our own. But our hearts are in this and we plan on laughing our way through all of our misadventures.
Tomorrow morning we climb Katahdin and start walking south. We'll have to make it through the '100 mile wilderness' before our first town stop. If we are able to get online in Monson, ME you can expect another post in 11 days or so.
So this morning we were up for a 5am breakfast in the airport before venturing to town. We walked to the bus station, bought our tickets for this evening and got some vague directions to the library 3 miles away in downtown Bangor. Thanks to some kid on his way to summer school who was heading our way anyway, we made it... only to find out we were an hour early so we walked around town like vagabonds. Its nice not having anything to do.
We had a great time in Florida this last week, visiting friends and family. We really enjoyed all the hiking questions- what do you eat? how far do you walk? do you carry a tent? etc. We try to paint a rosy picture of this hike but we've noticed that others' descriptions aren't as flattering. Our aunt Amy and cousin Shana both had comical ways of describing our walk in the woods as an endless trudge in the worst possible conditions. All we could do is laugh nervously. We know this hike will, at times, be closer to their description than our own. But our hearts are in this and we plan on laughing our way through all of our misadventures.
Tomorrow morning we climb Katahdin and start walking south. We'll have to make it through the '100 mile wilderness' before our first town stop. If we are able to get online in Monson, ME you can expect another post in 11 days or so.
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